Kapnos, Mike Isabella’s third restaurant in the District, has been open for four days. And yes, it was possible to get a 7:30 p.m. reservation in its first week.
The spits were spinning with lamb, goat and suckling pig, but the pork dish — at $28 a plate — was not a favorite among the chef’s tasting menu dishes, which overall is a pretty good deal for $65 per person.
If you go to Kapnos and want to select your own mezze, here’s what you should get:
Spreads: Tyrokaftari, or whipped feta served with a warm, puffy folded flatbread — aka pita.
Cold mezze: The spicey watermelon is a fresh palate cleanser topped with peppery black tempanade-like dollops.
Garden mezze: Greek fries. Enough said. The hot disks of chick peas sprinkled with mizithra, a traditional white unpasteurized cheese, is perfectly balanced by an order of the garden salad made of fresh tomatoes, feta in luscious olive oil. The fava is pretty good, too.
Ocean mezze: The smokiness of the charred octopus is like nothing you’ve had before.
Phyllo pies: Roasted duck
Although a homemade olive oil ice cream could win anyone over, the semolina cake it was paired with was not impressive. The waitstaff will likely recommend the apple baklava. You should get it, but it won’t set you packing for the Greek Isles.